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 STEER YOUR WAY THROUGH THE
TRAILERING JARGON
23 June 2000
This is a tale of tongue weight, precise hitch geometry, proper vehicle load balance, receiver-style ball mounts and ...
Oh, the world of trailering is a jargony place. But like all jargon, the truth behind the heavy-duty words is really quite straightforward and understandable. And if you plan to tow a recreational trailer this summer
-- house trailer, tent trailer or boat -- this is the place to learn the difference between a wiring harness and trailer brakes. We promise it won't hurt -- much.
So where do we start? Perhaps we should explode a most persistent myth. That is, only rear-wheel-drive vehicles are suitable for towing. On the contrary, as long as you get the towing basics right, front-wheel drive small and mid-sized sedans, station wagons and vans are quite suitable for towing trailers up to 1,361 kilograms or 3,000 pounds. That means these lighter front-drive vehicles are fully capable of towing fold-out campers, utility trailers, personal watercraft and snowmobiles.
Now it's true that heavy-duty towing is best left to big, powerful, rear-drive vehicles. And yes, for the heaviest trailers in the range of 3,265 kg. (7,200 pounds) or more, you really are safest and happiest driving a big, ladder-framed vehicle with a gutsy diesel engine under the hood up front. In other words, a heavy-duty pickup. Why? The ladder frame, with its two parallel side members and perpendicular cross members which give it the appearance of a ladder, is extraordinarily strong, although very heavy. Yet regardless of the vehicle and what it's towing, the basics of trailering never change. Ignore them at a peril of handling problems, unstable braking and trailer sway that can scare you right off the road. Or worse. To the basics, then.
THE BASICS
Strive to get your trailer dead level. It's that simple. If the trailer you're towing is dead level, everything else works - braking, steering, ride control, the works. The technical term for this is "precise hitch geometry." If you have precise hitch geometry, your trailer is level when hitched to the ball. When your trailer tilts up or down, you can't get the tongue weight right. That leaves the trailer free to run loose and move around independently. Moreover, if the tongue weight is wrong, the trailer might get jumpy when you're braking. Why so? To answer that we have to explain what tongue weight is and what happens when you get it wrong?
Tongue weight refers to the amount of weight at the point where the trailer hitch meets the ball on your vehicle. The automakers publish tongue weights and maximum recommended trailer weights for their vehicles, but that advice is just a starting point. Here's where many folks go wrong: they fail to balance the cargo load in the trailer, thus there is either more or less pressure on the tongue than is optimal.
As you can imagine, too much load at the rear of the trailer reduces tongue weight and leaves the trailer almost floating, as if it were semi-independent of the towing vehicle. Too much cargo loaded at the front of the trailer will lever weight off the front wheels of the tow vehicle. There goes a measure of steering and some braking control on both front- and rear-drive vehicles. But on front-wheel-drive vehicles, the load balance and correct tongue weight are critical. That's because on front-drivers, 100 per cent of the steering, braking and engine torque (or twisting force) are all directed to the front wheels. In short, if you want to drive, steer and stop effectively when towing a trailer, get the tongue weight right and the trailer load balanced.
HITCHES
Rules of thumb: 1) pick the highest-rated receiver hitch possible for your vehicle. Hitches, of course, are rated according to the weight they can accommodate. Class I is the most basic and covers a small tent trailer or one personal watercraft. Class II, III and so on cover heavier loads. You want the highest rated hitch possible in case you plan to tow a heavier trailer or a second watercraft. Trust us; this happens often. And 2) hitch installation is not a job for even the most competent do-it-yourselfer. Find a skilled custom hitch installer and let them do the work. This is especially important for
front-drive vehicles and any vehicle with modern unit-body construction that lacks a traditional ladder frame. Most passenger cars and many minivans and small
sport-utility vehicles have unit-body construction.
Why this caution? When you think uni-body construction, think of your car as an eggshell. It's very strong when completely intact, but weakens dramatically if chipped or cracked.
Uni-body vehicles are like eggshells in that the vehicle structure combines the chassis frame and body in a single unit
-- one piece as opposed to a ladder frame onto which a vehicle body is attached. Shadetree mechanics run a strong risk of compromising the unibody by installing a trailer hitch incorrectly, thus weakening the vehicle structure and creating a driving safety hazard."
TRAILER BRAKES
Larger, heavier trailers come with their own brake system that works in tandem with the tow vehicle's brakes. The two systems are hooked up with wires and a device called a "proportional brake controller" electrically directs braking force in proportion to the deceleration of the vehicle. The connections should be installed and tested by a qualified hitch shop.
WRAPPING UP
The towing limitations for your vehicle are a function of its size, design and power capabilities. Generally speaking, smaller vehicles are suitable for towing smaller trailers, larger vehicles are a match for larger vehicles. The vehicle's manufacturer and a good trailer hitch shop can give you the details - usually by phone. But that only makes sense,
right? Just like trailering jargon when it's explained.
SIDEBAR ON MEASURING TONGUE WEIGHT
What to take the tongue weight of your trailer to see if you've got the weight balanced and within the manufacturer's recommendations? Here's how:
It's common for tongue weights to be within the range of a good bathroom scale so if you have one try this:
1) set up your cargo load within the trailer with an eye to getting the balance as close to dead even as possible.
2) Take a piece of wood block capable of holding the trailer horizontal when positioned between the coupler's ball cup and the scale.
3) Place plywood shims where appropriate to level the load on the scale.
4) Read the weight on the scale. If it's within recommended limits, take a test drive to be sure everything works on the road. Note: for heavier weights, you'll need to go to a trailer shop with the appropriate scale.
PRE-TOW CHECK LIST
You should do a thorough road test and inspection of your vehicle before towing anything, ensuring that all the regular maintenance items have been updated and that all systems are in good working order.
Check you owner's manual for guidelines.
As for your trailer, follow this list:
1) Check all fasteners to be sure none are loose.
2) Check tongue weight and load balance.
3) Check the wiring harness for loose connections and frayed wires.
4) Do a visual check of all lights, including brake and running lights.
5) Make sure the trailer axle is properly lubricated.
6) Examine the trailer's tires for tread depth, cuts, bulges and tire pressure.
ADD-ONS
1) Transmission oil coolers. If you tow loads of more than 454 kg. (1,000 lbs) for more than an hour you will need a transmission oil cooler. Most manufacturers include them with a standard trailer tow package. If not, get one installed to protect your transmission from boiling.
2) Devices like the TempAlerT include a dash-mounted indicator that displays information from sensors mounted on the brake at each wheel. This device provides a warning that brakes could be on the verge of overheating and fading.
3) A coupler lock secures the coupler socket, preventing thieves from pulling up and towing your trailer away when your vehicle is unhitched.
4) The fifth-wheel option: a fifth-wheel hitch is positioned in the bed of a full-size pickup is often ideal for those pulling larger trailers. The beauty of a fifth-wheel is that it eliminates many of the weight balance and hitch geometry problems of a ball-and-coupler hitch.
DRIVING TIPS
For drivers of even large recreational trailers, there are no special licencing requirements. Still, many driving instruction schools will teach you the basics of what to do behind the wheel when towing a trailer. And good instruction is worth the investment.
But nothing substitutes for practice. So if you're new to towing, or if it's been a while since you towed, take the full rig to an empty parking lot where it's safe to turn, back-up, hitch and unhitch. All these should become second nature.
Once you're comfortable, take your rig for a drive along a deserted stretch of road where you can try braking from higher speeds and gently swerving from side to side as if to avoid an obstacle. Also, practice changing lanes and merging into traffic. Keep in mind that when you're towing a trailer, everything happens more slowly. Which means you'll need to plan all your driving maneuvers well in advance.
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 HERE'S HOW TO GET READY FOR THAT RV TRIP
14 April 2000
When we decided to devote an entire episode of The Car Pros televison show to recreational vehicles and the whole RV lifestyle, I was faced with the job of writing a script about a subject I knew almost nothing. Nada. Zippo. Not a thing.
To me, an RV has always been nothing more than one of those lumbering vehicles I'm anxious to pass on the highway. As I've passed these big rigs, I've always been impressed by the blissful look on the face of most RV drivers. So, what are these people so happy about? What do they know that I don't?
Fortunately, I have plenty of friends who absolutely love to spend summer holidays RVing. George, Louie, Carrie, Rob, Patti, Ken and the gang proved to be a great collective resource. And speaking of great resources, Fraswerway RV Centre in Abbotsford B.C., agreed to give me a crack at both a Class A and Class C RV for a test drive/learning session. And the national RV association (reach them at 1-888-GO-RVING or visit the web site,
http://www.rvra.org) was loads of help with ideas and referrals.
www.go-rving-canada.ca
In the end I divided up the subject into four major areas: 1) The whys and what-fors of RVing. 2) Motor home types, including pros and cons. 3) What you need to know to go on an RV trip. And 4), pre-travel preparations and planning for an RV holiday.
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 THE WHY AND WHAT-FORS
14 April 2000
"We like it because the question, `Are we there yet?' never comes up with the kids," says George, a veteran of numerous family vacations in his big Class A motorhome. "When we're on the road, the kids can play games, watch a movie on TV, fix a snack, go to the bathroom...whatever. And I can have fresh-brewed coffee any time I want."
Carrie, an expert planner, avowed budget-keeper and devoted list-maker says there are no "bad" surprises on an RV holiday and only the rare restaurant meal. Long before taking off, Carrie has master-minded her packing and meal-planning. The fridge and freezer are full, the closets loaded up with all the clothes she and the family will need, movies for her RV's VCR are picked, music CDs packed and all the toys-from mountain bikes to golf clubs and even a barbeque--are stuffed into various cubbies and compartments.
"It costs a lot less to shop way in advance," she says, "and something as easy as warming up a sandwich in the microwave is always right there for you if you want a quick snack."
Rob does most of the driving on RV trips, but if he does get tired of the pilot's seat, Carrie, his wife, can always take over so he can go in back for a quick nap-without losing any time on the road.
"But that doesn't happen much," he says, pointing out that the view from the huge windows in his Class A is fantastic. "There's always something to see," he adds, "and because you're so high up, you see it all."
Once he arrives at an RV site, Louie likes the quick transition from road warrior to couch potato.
"We've got automatic levelers (on the Class A), so it's that easy to get the coach stabilized," he says. "If the weather's lousy, I'll leave the hook-up chores until it clears up. And even if I do have to hook-up, I'm only minutes from a cold one once I get where I'm going. After that, it's just a matter of watching the tanks (grey and black). Camping made easy."
Ken adds that the toughest job he has when it's time to set up camp in an RV park is raising the awning and laying out the green indoor/outdoor carpet.
"You gotta have an awning," he says. "It's like a patio
cover at your house. You know, when you go camping you certainly don't want to spend all your time inside the motorhome. And it's a lot more social to be outside."
Indeed, everyone went to great lengths to discuss how friendly people are in RV campgrounds. The latter are nothing thing less than little communities filled with people from different backgrounds who all have at least one shared experience: RVing. It's rare, I was told and was also later to learn, to run into jerks at an RV site. In fact, most times, because so many RVers either have kids or are retirees, the campsite is still and dead quiet by 11 at night.
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MOTOR HOME TYPES
14 April 2000
There are three main ones: Classes A, B and C. The biggest and best are the Class A motorhomes, and they're also the most expensive. The least expensive Class A homes start at about $65,000 and can range to more than $500,000. However, if you look around it's quite possible to find a used one in good shape for as little as $10,000. Rob did.
 His is a standard-width (244 cm/96 inches), 24-foot model and like all Class A motorhomes, it's built on a specialized chassis. If you can afford it, there are wider (259 cm./102 in.) models with full air suspensions that run to as much as 40-feet in length. And many of these units have sides that expand outward (so-called "slide-outs") when you park at a campsite. Simply put, these are spacious, self-contained units that allow the cockpit to serve as part of the living room-usually because of front seats that swivel backwards.
 Class B homes are essentially van conversions. They, too, are self-contained right down to their propane stoves, and many expand upwards with a bubble top that allows adults to stand upright inside. New, they start at about $40,000-plus.
 Class C motorhomes, often called "van cutaways" in the RV industry, usually come in lengths ranging from 20-30 feet and are extremely popular with families and renters because they have all the amenities of a Class A at a much lower price-say, $45,000-$80,000. Class Cs are easily recognizable by their cabover bed which is often very popular with kids for sleeping.
The chassis or platform on which a motorhome rides will generally fall into one of two main categories. The first type is manufactured by either Workhorse (which used to be the Chevrolet chassis) or Ford and adapted for use in Class A and C gasoline-powered motorhomes. The second is known as the "diesel pusher" and consists of a chassis built by individual coach builders specifically for use in a motorhome. Powerplants run from the typical V10 engine in many Class Cs to the turbodiesels in many Class As.
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 WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO GO ON AN RV TRIP
14 April 2000
If you choose to rent a large RV for your next holiday, expect to pay more than $1,000 a week in rental charges. Add to that fuel costs and campsite rental fees that usually run to $25-$35/day for a space in a full-service campground. Campsites can often be booked in advance, just like a hotel room. Directories for both Canada and the U.S. are available from your RV association or call 1-888-GO-RVING.
If you plan to rent for a summer holiday-the busiest time of the year-plan to book months in advance. Sometimes you can get special rental packages if you book far enough ahead, but no matter what deal you agree to, be sure to find out if the quoted price includes any extra fees for filling the propane and water tanks and what the rental company expects of you in terms of cleaning the RV when it's returned. Also expect to be charged for empty tanks if you do not refill them before returning your rig.
Most RV rental dealers will ask for a security deposit that frequently amounts to half a week's rental charge. And be sure to clarify all issues related to insurance on the RV unit-included who's insured to drive it.
Drivers do not need to have a special licence to operate an RV on the highway, but they're big, so if you're inexperienced be sure to get a good mental picture of your unit's dimensions and be sure to
practice driving in an empty parking lot before you set out on your trip. Be especially prepared to back-up.
You probably will have to drive in reverse when you park at an RV campground. So find the proper mirror adjustments and if your unit has a camera system to show you what's going on behind, be sure to know how it works. When you're driving, allow plenty of time for braking, changing lanes and merging into traffic.
Before you leave your RV dealer, ask a representative to show you how to operate everything from water tanks (fresh and waste) to the propane heater, the refrigerator and the stove. You especially want to know how to cut off the propane tank and how to fill it up. And you'll want to know where all the hoses
and plumbing hook-ups are for fresh and waste water-and how to tell the difference.
Safety should be a priority, so get to know where the RV's fire extinguisher, smoke alarm and gas-leak detectors are and how they work. Understand all the unit's instruments and controls, too.
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 PRE-TRAVEL PREPARATIONS AND PLANNING
14 April 2000
Every RV unit is a complex collection of systems that work together to give on-the-road-travel all the comforts of home. Before you set out be sure to check the following systems:
* Liquid propane/gas system: If you have propane cylinders, those more than 12 years old must be recertified. You may find that a station will refuse to re-fill empty tanks if they find the certification has expired. Motorhome tanks do not have to be recertified. If you do not know how to check for leaks in your system, visit your RV dealer.
* You want to make sure you have a leak-free water system before you set out on the road. Do a test by filling the freshwater tank, closing all the faucets and turning on the water pump. If it cycles, you have a leak. Unless you're an expert, visit your RV dealer. RVs that have been winterized need to be flushed. If you don't know what that is, see your RV dealer.
* If you are a handy, do-it-yourselfer, you know how to use a multimeter to check the batteries that will run your fans, appliances, lights, alarms and the like when you're away from an RV hookup. Before you leave, plug in your RV's electrical hookup and operate all the powered goodies. Familiarize yourself with any switches that route power from one source to another. An owner's manual will help with this. Be especially careful to make sure the refrigerator operates on each power source, or your food could go bad.
* You'll want to test your grey and black water tanks before leaving. Use a garden hose to fill each tank. For the grey tank, run the hose into the shower or a sink drain, while for the black tank put the hose in the toilet (remember to open the toilet valve). A readout will tell you when they are three-quarters full, at which time you can inspect them for leaks. When you dump the tanks at a nearby site, look for problems at the gate valves and pipe joints.
*Finally, do a complete walkaround of both the interior and exterior. Inside, you're looking for cabinet doors that don't work and the like. Outside, you're looking for broken steps, wonky awnings and doors housing tanks and fittings that are loose or unworkable. While you're at it, make sure all your unit's lights work, too. You've got a big unit here, so you want to be as completely visible as possible.
Happy motorhoming.
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 RV ASSOCIATION OFFERS FREE `HOW-TO' BOOKLET
24 March 2000
The Go RVing Canada coalition is offering a free reference guide to anyone interested in the basics of RVing, as well what the so-called "RV lifestyle" has to offer.
Some topics covered in the glovebox-size booklet include driving requirements for RV drivers, an overview of the different types of RVs and a list of answers to potentially crucial buying decisions.
The full-colour booklet also has contact numbers and addresses for Canada's privately owned campground associations, the national and provincial parks, tourism departments, caravan clubs and RV magazines. Also included is a small directory of U.S.-based RV organizations with Canadian chapters.
To receive a copy call 1-888-GoRVing (1-888-467-8464) or visit the coalition's web site at
www.go-rving-canada.ca. |
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 RECREATION
VEHICLES TRAVEL INTO NEXT MILLENNIUM WITH HIGH-TECH FEATURES
05 January 2000
Imagine a 25-foot (7.62 metre) recreation vehicle (RV) that expands to 40
feet (12.2 m.) by pushing a button.
Imagine RVs equipped with wind turbines and solar panels to generate
electricity. Or how about a rooftop deck or "penthouse patio"
featuring a wetbar, barbecue and built-in spa?
Welcome to the world of Rvs in the new millennium.
These high-tech features will be found in some of tomorrow's motorhomes,
travel trailers, folding camping trailers and truck campers, say to RV
product designers.
"Today's RVs are already loaded with high-tech features that make
travel more fun, comfortable and convenient, and there are more to
come," says David J. Humphreys, Recreation Vehicle Industry
Association (RVIA) president.
Today many RVs now come equipped with electronic navigational systems that
guide travelers to their next destination; satellite and Internet TV;
touchscreens to control the RV's environment; closed-circuit rear view
cameras; and moving walls or slideouts that increase space with the push
of a button.
As the RV industry enters the new millennium, consumers can expect to find
more technological innovations. Such as:
-- Slideout Patios completely surrounding RVs for added space and weather
protection. These patios
would be screened-in rooms with sliding glass
doors attaching them to the RV, with the rear one
doubling as a carport.
-- Futuristic shapes, fun colors and sloped windshields to add style and
versatility.
-- Eye-controlled outside mirrors that can be adjusted simply by looking
at them.
-- More tailgating features, like exterior panels that lift to reveal a TV
that's easily viewed from the
outside -- great for watching the pre-game
show at a tailgating party. Panels at the rear could be lifted
to allow
food to be served from the back, similar to a concession trailer.
-- Retractable sunroofs to enjoy good weather.
-- Spiral staircases leading to a rooftop deck.
-- Homing devices to help family members follow your travels right down to
where you are parked for the
night.
-- Multi-purpose rooms designed for flexible use of space.
-- Beds stored under the main floor that can pop up at bedtime. And for
additional room, furniture could
be "knocked down," with tables
and chairs collapsing to the walls of the RV.
-- Voice-controlled lighting.
-- Built-in kennels for dog-lovers.
-- Smart technology that provides self-diagnostic tests (checking oil,
etc.) on the vehicle.
-- Expansion of home theater systems that already include giant screen TVs
or TV monitors that fold
away into the ceiling.
Internet users can learn more by going to http://www.rvia.org and http://www.GoRVing.com |
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